The crunchy balmithais sold at the shops at Bageshwar take some of the bad taste of one's mouth. It is a sweet unique to the Uttarakhand region and one will not regret trying it. But the mountains call out and what a host of them: Nandakot (7,878 m) and Pawali Dwar (6,663m) while flanking the actual glacier are Kafini and Sunderdhunga glaciers. Moving westwards, at Namik glacier one can see the headwaters of the Ramganga long before it becomes the mass of water flowing through the Corbett National Park.
Under the shadow of Nandakot, on the slopes too sharp to catch a foothold, the trail climbs towards Dhakuri Pass at 9,300 feet. Going towards Khati, just eight km away, one can hear the roar of the Pindar Ganga River.
Ahead is a maple-lined thicket en route to Dwali at 8,900 feet. Molten streams of quicksilver cascade in multitude of waterfalls, as one moves on towards Phurkia.
Now the destination is just another two-and-a-half thousand feet to climb. The ascent is steep till one gets to around Martoli, where there is a small shrine dedicated to the goddess Nanda Devi, the one who keeps a watchful eye on her devotees. Ice-bridge spans the river, which has to be crossed most gingerly. Six hours later, after several breaks for rest, one arrives at Pindari and what a sight it is. The primal forces are at work. The Great Sculptor has used his tools of ice here to carve a deep gorge into the face of the mountain and the waters have done the rest. The magnificent peak of Nandakot rises to 22,500 feet above the glacier's edge. It is a sight fit for the gods and one has no trouble understanding why the poets of ancient India waxed eloquent about the mystical beauty of the Himalayas.